Cotton-rich textile waste gains ground as cellulose fibre feedstock

The article below was provided by our partner SaXcell and based on an interview previously published on TexSpace Today. It shows how cotton-rich textile waste is increasingly being used as a raw material for new cellulose fibres, a development that is closely aligned with NewTexEco’s circular ambitions.

The textile industry faces a major challenge: the demand for fibre is growing, while the impact of traditional raw materials is becoming increasingly visible. Cotton cultivation requires a lot of water and arable land, while synthetic fibres are under pressure due to microplastics emissions. At the same time, the amount of textile waste is increasing worldwide.

According to SaXcell , cotton-rich textile waste offers increasing opportunities as an alternative raw material for the production of new cellulose fibres. SaXcell developed a technology that converts discarded textiles into pulp for the production of regenerative cellulose fibres.

CEO Pramod Agrawal says in the interview that his interest in circular textile solutions arose during research into green chemistry and enzymatic cotton processing. Early on, he says, it became clear that the textile sector needed to become fundamentally sustainable because of the high environmental impact of production processes and global chains.

SaXcell works mainly with cotton-rich waste streams, as cellulose forms the basis of the production process. Both industrial textile waste and post-consumer textiles can be processed. Cotton-polyester blends are also possible, although the polyester is lost in the process. The higher the cotton percentage, the more efficient the process.

Used towels and bedding, in particular, are seen as interesting raw materials. These products often consist largely of cotton, are relatively homogeneous and have already fully completed their original lifespan.

The development of alternative cellulose fibres is partly driven by the pressure on conventional cotton production. Producing one kilo of cotton requires a lot of water and a significant proportion of global pesticide use is linked to cotton cultivation. At the same time, global demand for textile fibres continues to grow.

SaXcell uses the Lyocell process, which largely recycles solvents and requires relatively little water. Whereas traditional Lyocell production is usually based on wood pulp, SaXcell uses post-consumer textiles as raw material.

According to the company, collaboration in the chain is essential to scale up these innovations. That is why SaXcell works with partners from different parts of the textile chain – from sorting and fibre production to spinning, knitting and product development.

The market for man-made cellulosic fibres is growing rapidly. At the same time, concerns about microplastics and stricter regulations around circularity and recycled content are increasing pressure on polyester.

European legislation also plays an important role in this. Developments such as the Digital Product Passport (DPP), the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR) and requirements around recycled content are driving the search for circular raw materials and new recycling technologies.

According to SaXcell, chemical recycling in particular can be an important complement to mechanical recycling, because not all textile streams are suitable for mechanical processing into high-quality new fibres.

With this development, cotton-rich textile waste grows step by step from residual stream to valuable raw material within a circular textile chain.